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pre fall 2017

My work is not about ‘form follows function,’ but ‘form follows beauty’ or, even better, ‘form follows feminine’. – Oscar Niemeyer

The Brazilian architect has been in Delpozo’s creative director Josep Font’s mind for some time now and has finally flourished for Pre-Fall 2017. Architecture is the base and structure of the prêt-à-couture brand’s DNA, which are always garnished with feminine organic details, in where Mary Delany’s “Flora Delanica” emerges for this collection.

The curve of Niemeyer, like for Font, is a bold statement about escaping the straight line. Creamy pencil skirts accentuate softly the hip, cape cut blouses, and A-line dresses with curved and full rounded sleeves are some of the silhouettes for this season, creating space and movement. Niemeyer brings fantasy and poetry to a collection filled with fuchsia, red, cerulean blue and orange. Knit comes in a seven-thread intarsia technique that remind one of the color block visual effect found in many of the architect’s buildings known for tracing organic motives.

However, for organic detail, creative director Josep Font turns to Mary Delany. She started her floral mosaics at the age of 72, and never better described as a late bloomer. Her love for gardening and nature inspired her on what would be later known as “Flora Delanica”, motivating the atelier of Delpozo for this season’s patchwork and embroidery. The handcrafted mosaics are made up by countless number of delicate hand cut pieces,an analogy to the myriad of hours that takes the Pre-Fall embroideries to be created: neoprene and leather floral inspired découpage on skirts, tops and handbags; wool embroidered flowers with fluorescent and tortoise leave shape sequins; and French knotting and fringe crochet knitwear. Even the ankle boots and heel mules of warm wool, sleek leather and glitter heels have Flora Delanica inspired details. Delicate petal shape cuttings in organza or in knit neoprene come out of blouses, tops and necklines as well as supple bows from dresses and skirts.

The Gret grows up into the “Gret Tote”, the new working bag for the Delpozo woman. In different color options, both solid and multicolor, the highlight is the patchwork style; also, found in the Benedetta doctor bag and the Orchid clutch. Twisting and turning hues of marine blue, burnt orange, dark green, ruby red, with an embroidered deep purple organdy with vainica, a handmade finishing distinctive of the house, and a fun touch of Shocking Pink wool found in a dress coat and the newly introduced Bow flat mule; fire up the color palette of season.

The strong use of vibrant colors with a base of ivory dreamt by Niemeyer and the multiple découpage inspired by the floral artistry of Delany are the forces behind Delpozo’s Pre-Fall 2017 collection.